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07 megane cabriolet1.5 diesel
Hi
My wifes drivers side window has stuck halfway , checked fuses etc all ok I'm reading a load posts about the "module" & can anyone recommend where I can buy one and replacement method
Cheers
My wifes drivers side window has stuck halfway , checked fuses etc all ok I'm reading a load posts about the "module" & can anyone recommend where I can buy one and replacement method
Cheers
So much for the SNP and nationalism..
If the petition was still live I would have joined in and tried to stop this sacrilege..its a national site and place of remembrance to those who lost their lives back then in the bitter fight for the right to control their own destinies..so much for jimmy Cranky and scottish home rule..
https://www.scottishfield.co.uk/trav...culloden-moor/
https://www.scottishfield.co.uk/trav...culloden-moor/
Stoptober
I was doing so well......
But I caved in and had 14 pints, a joint and some meth. Tuck Stoptober.... :grin2:
But I caved in and had 14 pints, a joint and some meth. Tuck Stoptober.... :grin2:
Nissan primastar Oil Ok 2005 van
Did an oil and filter change now on dash i have OIL OK, never saw one before,s should I have?
Clio Car Mats
I have a Renault Clio Initiale 2006 are the mats the same as a regular Clio as when I look at some mats on the internet they seem an odd shape.
Fading temperature/radio display
Hey guys
I have a Megane II mk2 with some issues on the temperature/clock/radio display.
On cold weather, it looks fine, but as soon as the temperature rise above ~25°C or if the car stays in the sun for a while, the display starts to fade, making a little difficult to read.
I have tried to open the assembly ad remove the LCD flat cable from the main board to clean the contacts, but it doesn't helped.
Any sujestions?
I have a Megane II mk2 with some issues on the temperature/clock/radio display.
On cold weather, it looks fine, but as soon as the temperature rise above ~25°C or if the car stays in the sun for a while, the display starts to fade, making a little difficult to read.
I have tried to open the assembly ad remove the LCD flat cable from the main board to clean the contacts, but it doesn't helped.
Any sujestions?
Tearing Hair Out Clio 1.4 16v
Hi all, long time since I've been on the Renault forums (forgot user name & password...) so hi and thanks for having me.
I helped a friend with his 2003 Clio after he bought it from Dodgy Davey (not his real name) and having taken Dodgy Davey at his word that all the belts "had" been done, he thought no more of it and drove on merrily and in total ignorance, until the timing belt went!
Upon looking at the car & listening to it churn over for all of half a second, I knew it was terminal. However, not only was the belt snapped, the head gasket had been on it's way out for a while, so it was gonna die one way or another.
I digress... I removed the engine, got the head done for a very good price & also got a new clutch while the engine was out (new old stock from GSF for 33 quid).
The rebuild went well and she fired up 1st turn of the key and ran beautifully for all of a few seconds. So I restarted and it was fine-ish then it stalled. Hmmm.... I finished placing all the plastic bits & double checked connections and took it for a drive. It drove fine, then it would hunt.
Anyway, it would start fine run perfectly then be all over the place, so I code read it and it occasionally threw up a fault. That's right, for 5 starts it was code free, then crank sensor, so I deleted it and another few starts no codes. But live data showed the crank sensor to be faulty so decided to replace the crank sensor. Bingo! Started & ran perfectly.
I found it had been done before and a wire was bared, but no other obvious damage to the loom anywhere up to the ECU cage.
So for two whole days the car started and ran perfectly, until the lad stalled it and it was back to the hunting & stalling.
I took the car apart, checked:
carbon canister "O" ring was tight (check)
wiring loom (check)
inlet manifold (check)
all electrical connections clean & tight (check)
new crank sensor for contamination (check)
spark plugs (check)
injectors (check)
coils (check)
throttle body (check)
I have stripped everything off that I originally removed prior to rebuilding the engine, nothing is amiss that I can see. The only thing that had been previously replaced was the CS as I stated.
Now here's the thing, on live data the ignition timing was advancing to +30 then it would settle to +6 give or take + or - 1 (i.e. +5 or +7 with further advance when foot to the floor blip of the throttle)
But whilst idling, it would suddenly retard to -2.7 and the engine would almost die, hunt catch and advance to +6 or thereabout. We watched as it did this over & over.
So, what have I missed here? What could cause this phenomenon other than what showed up on code & live data as the crank sensor?
I checked the crank pulley for float, but I replaced the pulley bolt with a brand new one & she's tight at around 150Nm. The cams are spot on with the large "D's" pointing up and the pin is fully screwed in with the webbing of the crank resting against it.
I am fairly certain I haven't missed anything out, but this car is now getting to the stage where it will have a Guy sitting on the drivers seat come November the 5th (not me, the owner >:) )
Thanks all :wink2:
Andoo
I helped a friend with his 2003 Clio after he bought it from Dodgy Davey (not his real name) and having taken Dodgy Davey at his word that all the belts "had" been done, he thought no more of it and drove on merrily and in total ignorance, until the timing belt went!
Upon looking at the car & listening to it churn over for all of half a second, I knew it was terminal. However, not only was the belt snapped, the head gasket had been on it's way out for a while, so it was gonna die one way or another.
I digress... I removed the engine, got the head done for a very good price & also got a new clutch while the engine was out (new old stock from GSF for 33 quid).
The rebuild went well and she fired up 1st turn of the key and ran beautifully for all of a few seconds. So I restarted and it was fine-ish then it stalled. Hmmm.... I finished placing all the plastic bits & double checked connections and took it for a drive. It drove fine, then it would hunt.
Anyway, it would start fine run perfectly then be all over the place, so I code read it and it occasionally threw up a fault. That's right, for 5 starts it was code free, then crank sensor, so I deleted it and another few starts no codes. But live data showed the crank sensor to be faulty so decided to replace the crank sensor. Bingo! Started & ran perfectly.
I found it had been done before and a wire was bared, but no other obvious damage to the loom anywhere up to the ECU cage.
So for two whole days the car started and ran perfectly, until the lad stalled it and it was back to the hunting & stalling.
I took the car apart, checked:
carbon canister "O" ring was tight (check)
wiring loom (check)
inlet manifold (check)
all electrical connections clean & tight (check)
new crank sensor for contamination (check)
spark plugs (check)
injectors (check)
coils (check)
throttle body (check)
I have stripped everything off that I originally removed prior to rebuilding the engine, nothing is amiss that I can see. The only thing that had been previously replaced was the CS as I stated.
Now here's the thing, on live data the ignition timing was advancing to +30 then it would settle to +6 give or take + or - 1 (i.e. +5 or +7 with further advance when foot to the floor blip of the throttle)
But whilst idling, it would suddenly retard to -2.7 and the engine would almost die, hunt catch and advance to +6 or thereabout. We watched as it did this over & over.
So, what have I missed here? What could cause this phenomenon other than what showed up on code & live data as the crank sensor?
I checked the crank pulley for float, but I replaced the pulley bolt with a brand new one & she's tight at around 150Nm. The cams are spot on with the large "D's" pointing up and the pin is fully screwed in with the webbing of the crank resting against it.
I am fairly certain I haven't missed anything out, but this car is now getting to the stage where it will have a Guy sitting on the drivers seat come November the 5th (not me, the owner >:) )
Thanks all :wink2:
Andoo
2015 Renault Traffic radio issue
Hi all I have a 2015 Renault Traffic and the radio back lite comes on but nothing else. The usb charging point not working either.
Connecting Yatour bleutooth adapter to carminat radio
Hi, I'm having Trouble connecting my yatour bluetooth audio player to the carminat radio in my Renault Megane 3 of 2011. I've connected the cables as they suppost to be connected (the yatour comes packed with Renault 12 pin interface that is convertered to the big black box of wires that you just plugin to the carminat radio).
The bluetooth device shows up and and i can connect to it, i can also see it plays music but I'm not getting any sound. I would expect the sound to come from the aux input, but nothings there.
I do have some experience with this bluetooth adapter as i owned a Seat Leon before and also connected a yatour in there. There it would work as a CD changer (cd2 was the bluetooth player), but in the Megane i only see mono CD in the menu. Any thought?
Regards,
Christian
The bluetooth device shows up and and i can connect to it, i can also see it plays music but I'm not getting any sound. I would expect the sound to come from the aux input, but nothings there.
I do have some experience with this bluetooth adapter as i owned a Seat Leon before and also connected a yatour in there. There it would work as a CD changer (cd2 was the bluetooth player), but in the Megane i only see mono CD in the menu. Any thought?
Regards,
Christian
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