Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum
Software/Firmware updates
Is there any way I can determine if my car has any pending software updates?
I did ask the local dealer, and they said the only way they could tell, was to plug in the diagnostic computer, which would then install any required updates. Cost - £90, and it might not even need any.
So is there any official documentation from Renault which allows me to:-
a) Determine the software revision installed on my car (Grand Scenic '63 reg)
b) Indicate what updates I could, or should install
I did ask the local dealer, and they said the only way they could tell, was to plug in the diagnostic computer, which would then install any required updates. Cost - £90, and it might not even need any.
So is there any official documentation from Renault which allows me to:-
a) Determine the software revision installed on my car (Grand Scenic '63 reg)
b) Indicate what updates I could, or should install
Electronic Fault Grand Scenic MK II 54 Plate
Hopefully someone can point me in the right direction, recently i had to change the bulb on the passenger break light since i have changed this bulb i know get an electronic fault warning on the dashboard whenever i drive with the lights on, when i get the error on the dash if i turn the lights off and on again the error message goes away again for 10-15mins then reappears.
Loss of power laguna dci 131ps laguna
Hi guys,
need some help with my 2006 laguna dci 131ps after i mounted a new cover to fit over the injectors.(Black plastic cover with two 10mm screws).To fit that i took of the pipe from the intercooler with the throttle body.First i unhocked the minus from the battery of course.Then i unhocked the plug for the mapsensor and the throttle body so i could give the pipe it self and the butterfly a good clean with brake cleaner.I did not move the butterfly with my fingers! Then mounted everything back in the same way before i connected the battery minus back on.Then my problem...after start up i took it for a drive and i felt instantly that i didnt have the power i had before this was done.No limp mode but i feel its missing 20-30ps... i have checked that everything is mounted as it was.Even bought a new mapsensor.So my questions are:
-Is it a process to reset the throttle body after my small DIY on the 1.9 dci?
-When engine is shut off and the keycard taken out of the cardreader,i can see the butterfly is fully open and its also open in the same way when the car is running without driving,and without touching the pedal.Is that correct?
-How can i check that the throttle body is in the correct setting?
One thing happend when i drove it for the first time after my DIY! I flored it out on the third gear and it suddenly stalled and didnt respond on the pedal for some seconds! Never experienced that before the job,or not after that one time either.Hocked up my scanner and it came up with DF008 fault code: pedal potensiometer.Erased it and it has not come back again by now..
My sugguest is pressure leak or more likely throttle body adjustment or fault with that caused by cleaning it.
Hope someone can help..
Thanks
Morten
Norway
need some help with my 2006 laguna dci 131ps after i mounted a new cover to fit over the injectors.(Black plastic cover with two 10mm screws).To fit that i took of the pipe from the intercooler with the throttle body.First i unhocked the minus from the battery of course.Then i unhocked the plug for the mapsensor and the throttle body so i could give the pipe it self and the butterfly a good clean with brake cleaner.I did not move the butterfly with my fingers! Then mounted everything back in the same way before i connected the battery minus back on.Then my problem...after start up i took it for a drive and i felt instantly that i didnt have the power i had before this was done.No limp mode but i feel its missing 20-30ps... i have checked that everything is mounted as it was.Even bought a new mapsensor.So my questions are:
-Is it a process to reset the throttle body after my small DIY on the 1.9 dci?
-When engine is shut off and the keycard taken out of the cardreader,i can see the butterfly is fully open and its also open in the same way when the car is running without driving,and without touching the pedal.Is that correct?
-How can i check that the throttle body is in the correct setting?
One thing happend when i drove it for the first time after my DIY! I flored it out on the third gear and it suddenly stalled and didnt respond on the pedal for some seconds! Never experienced that before the job,or not after that one time either.Hocked up my scanner and it came up with DF008 fault code: pedal potensiometer.Erased it and it has not come back again by now..
My sugguest is pressure leak or more likely throttle body adjustment or fault with that caused by cleaning it.
Hope someone can help..
Thanks
Morten
Norway
LAGUNA 3 ABS issues
Hi,
I have a Laguna 3, 2007 2.0 dci dynamic.
For the past couple of weeks I have been having an intermittent abs/check brakes/esp warning. When connected to a friends diagnotic we got 2 codes both have no hits when searching the internet. Today I took the car to a garage for diagnostic and it returned only a C0020 code and the mech told me it’s probably the abs controller and they would charge £400 to get it refurbished. Being an intermittent fault I’m worried that the refurb company might return it no fault found.
I’ve seen a couple of posts where people have successfully sent units away for refurb, or replacing with second hand unit. Any advice for this particular code? And I’m assuming the abs controller can’t be separated from the pump easily? At least looking at pictures of the assembly I can’t seem to make out what is pump and what is controller, unless the photos are just the controller?
Also I don’t have a manual and there doesn’t seem to be anything on the net on how to get to it.....again I’m assuming it is in the same position as on a Laguna 2, there’s a couple of videos on Laguna 2’s. Lives behind the front bumper driver Side?
Codes from delphi 2013 reader where:
40201c28
40201228
I have a Laguna 3, 2007 2.0 dci dynamic.
For the past couple of weeks I have been having an intermittent abs/check brakes/esp warning. When connected to a friends diagnotic we got 2 codes both have no hits when searching the internet. Today I took the car to a garage for diagnostic and it returned only a C0020 code and the mech told me it’s probably the abs controller and they would charge £400 to get it refurbished. Being an intermittent fault I’m worried that the refurb company might return it no fault found.
I’ve seen a couple of posts where people have successfully sent units away for refurb, or replacing with second hand unit. Any advice for this particular code? And I’m assuming the abs controller can’t be separated from the pump easily? At least looking at pictures of the assembly I can’t seem to make out what is pump and what is controller, unless the photos are just the controller?
Also I don’t have a manual and there doesn’t seem to be anything on the net on how to get to it.....again I’m assuming it is in the same position as on a Laguna 2, there’s a couple of videos on Laguna 2’s. Lives behind the front bumper driver Side?
Codes from delphi 2013 reader where:
40201c28
40201228
Japanese grand prix 2018
Qualifying Results
Sebastian Vettel messed up in Q3 but thats Ferrari This year
Sebastian Vettel messed up in Q3 but thats Ferrari This year
How to change this DPF rubber pipe? 2.0 DCI
Hi all,
So the Laguna III 2.0 DCI 180hp keeps regenerating...
I’ve changed one of the rubber pipes closest to the rear of the car but can I hell get my hands in to get access to the other pipe which seems to run towards the engine and around a corner and under some metal housing?
How has anyone else changed this pipe?
I’ve attached pictures for the pipe I mean.
Many thanks
So the Laguna III 2.0 DCI 180hp keeps regenerating...
I’ve changed one of the rubber pipes closest to the rear of the car but can I hell get my hands in to get access to the other pipe which seems to run towards the engine and around a corner and under some metal housing?
How has anyone else changed this pipe?
I’ve attached pictures for the pipe I mean.
Many thanks
Reviving the Remap/Chip debate. Clio II 1.5dci
I have read with interest all that I could find on here (and elsewhere) regarding the suitability or not of remapping or chipping my Clio. For clarity it's a 2002, Mk II, 1.5dci, 82hp 3 door model. Fairly high mileage (for UK tastes) but runs and goes very well.
In asking for opinions and input I'm broadly laying out my thoughts here, so is likely to touch on related topics. Please feel free to chip in (no pun intended!) or even shoot me down (politely).
From the information around it seems that irrespective of the merits or advisability of a chip vs remap, almost everyone is advertising gains between +20hp - +35hp (!!), and corresponding increases in torque.
First thing to make clear is this: IF it turns out to be sensible and realistic to do, I would only be doing this in order to have that occasional bit of extra to make driving more comfortable, and NOT for any style of competition, time trialling etc. thus wouldn't imagine I'm putting the car under any undue stresses. Again feel free to correct me.
Having read through many posts here forgive me if I don't namecheck the OPs - there was a LOT to read through! :P
Let's just assume for a moment that a power gain of around 20hp was achievable.
There's the point well made that since manufacturers spend zillions on R&D, they'd hardly release a car (one assumes) with a performance which, for not very much money, could be drastically improved. Thus, the idea that one could take the engine in my car and by simply waving some magic and a couple of hundred pounds, it's suddenly both much more powerful yet somehow more economical (I've read the thinking behind that i.e. lower revs, less gear changes) and at the same time I'm left with a non-compromised reliability.
Then again, I just looked up the Wikipedia article on the Clio. According to that, all phase 2 Clios use the K9K common rail diesel. That being the case, I'm left to wonder why three models of the 1.5 output 65, 82 and 100hp respectively. Anyone able to enlighten me? Is it mechanical, or simply ECU based?
I've also satisfied myself that (perhaps wrongly) it's a complete waste of time bothering with either an induction kit or to change the air filter. Lots of information and views on that I found here.
Other questions:
Chipping: common opinion seems to be that chips are overall a bit 'meh' as they do either very little or not much, depending on how many sensors they 'fool'.
Reading over archived posts, some people have had trouble getting after-market chips to run without them throwing and injection fault code, thereby disabling the car. I'm currently looking at the items sold by Bluespark. They claim all sorts of power and fuel gains from the part supplied for my car, with NO mention of possible installation issues: https://www.bluesparkautomotive.com/...2-ps-pro-boost
With regard to remaps, Celtic E seem to stand out (among others). What surprised me upon contacting them was that they suggested I could just mail in my ECU (since they have no dealers in my country). That being the case, it caused me to wonder just what is going on with the remapping if it's so 'generic'. Or does the car's ECU retain some form of 'memory' that ties it to the particular vehicle?
If the differences between the various versions of the Clio 1.5dci are down to mapping, could I not simply fit the ECU from the 100hp version to my car? Or is that utter madness?
Lastly: has anyone ever tried 'home based' remapping? After all, it comes down to an interface, some wires and a computer. Not quite sure why the cost of a remap can run to 400 euros if you don't even need the car to be present!
Thoughts or opinions anyone??
p.s. please don't link back to archive posts, although I'm NOT claiming I've read the entire forum cover to cover :)
In asking for opinions and input I'm broadly laying out my thoughts here, so is likely to touch on related topics. Please feel free to chip in (no pun intended!) or even shoot me down (politely).
From the information around it seems that irrespective of the merits or advisability of a chip vs remap, almost everyone is advertising gains between +20hp - +35hp (!!), and corresponding increases in torque.
First thing to make clear is this: IF it turns out to be sensible and realistic to do, I would only be doing this in order to have that occasional bit of extra to make driving more comfortable, and NOT for any style of competition, time trialling etc. thus wouldn't imagine I'm putting the car under any undue stresses. Again feel free to correct me.
Having read through many posts here forgive me if I don't namecheck the OPs - there was a LOT to read through! :P
Let's just assume for a moment that a power gain of around 20hp was achievable.
There's the point well made that since manufacturers spend zillions on R&D, they'd hardly release a car (one assumes) with a performance which, for not very much money, could be drastically improved. Thus, the idea that one could take the engine in my car and by simply waving some magic and a couple of hundred pounds, it's suddenly both much more powerful yet somehow more economical (I've read the thinking behind that i.e. lower revs, less gear changes) and at the same time I'm left with a non-compromised reliability.
Then again, I just looked up the Wikipedia article on the Clio. According to that, all phase 2 Clios use the K9K common rail diesel. That being the case, I'm left to wonder why three models of the 1.5 output 65, 82 and 100hp respectively. Anyone able to enlighten me? Is it mechanical, or simply ECU based?
I've also satisfied myself that (perhaps wrongly) it's a complete waste of time bothering with either an induction kit or to change the air filter. Lots of information and views on that I found here.
Other questions:
Chipping: common opinion seems to be that chips are overall a bit 'meh' as they do either very little or not much, depending on how many sensors they 'fool'.
Reading over archived posts, some people have had trouble getting after-market chips to run without them throwing and injection fault code, thereby disabling the car. I'm currently looking at the items sold by Bluespark. They claim all sorts of power and fuel gains from the part supplied for my car, with NO mention of possible installation issues: https://www.bluesparkautomotive.com/...2-ps-pro-boost
With regard to remaps, Celtic E seem to stand out (among others). What surprised me upon contacting them was that they suggested I could just mail in my ECU (since they have no dealers in my country). That being the case, it caused me to wonder just what is going on with the remapping if it's so 'generic'. Or does the car's ECU retain some form of 'memory' that ties it to the particular vehicle?
If the differences between the various versions of the Clio 1.5dci are down to mapping, could I not simply fit the ECU from the 100hp version to my car? Or is that utter madness?
Lastly: has anyone ever tried 'home based' remapping? After all, it comes down to an interface, some wires and a computer. Not quite sure why the cost of a remap can run to 400 euros if you don't even need the car to be present!
Thoughts or opinions anyone??
p.s. please don't link back to archive posts, although I'm NOT claiming I've read the entire forum cover to cover :)
Ruddy bright headlights
Wow, just how bright are these stupid kin headlights going to get.
My Toyota's headlights are bright but bad bright. You get a bright square that stops definitively at a point a set distance ahead. After that its black unless you use main beam which makes people a hundred miles away squint.
The old Mondeo's headlights blended into the dark and gave far better and less tiring visibility than the modern rubbish.
People could see you coming and the headlights wernt eye wateringly bright on just dip.
What is with the modern 'safety mad' world that we are getting vehicles with headlights so bright they blind oncoming cars on just dip. People are GOING to get killed because they cannot see where they are going and may well head on the car with the 'safer' modern headlights.
Sorry to rant but i cannot believe it hasn't been brought up as a serious road danger yet.
C-A-L-M..... Hommmmmmm.0:)
My Toyota's headlights are bright but bad bright. You get a bright square that stops definitively at a point a set distance ahead. After that its black unless you use main beam which makes people a hundred miles away squint.
The old Mondeo's headlights blended into the dark and gave far better and less tiring visibility than the modern rubbish.
People could see you coming and the headlights wernt eye wateringly bright on just dip.
What is with the modern 'safety mad' world that we are getting vehicles with headlights so bright they blind oncoming cars on just dip. People are GOING to get killed because they cannot see where they are going and may well head on the car with the 'safer' modern headlights.
Sorry to rant but i cannot believe it hasn't been brought up as a serious road danger yet.
C-A-L-M..... Hommmmmmm.0:)
Electric power steering
Hi I have a loss of power to the steering pump on my 2004 kangoo van the pump is located in the n/s/f wheel arch with a red and black wires but no power has some one had this problem and what do I need to fix thanks
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