Grand Scenic MK3 (2010) driver door lock locked.

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Grand Scenic MK3 (2010) driver door lock locked.

Hi all, I have a 2010 Renault Grand Scenic and the drivers door doesn't unlock any more with the remote central locking, all the other doors work ok. The lock can still be closed with the central locking.



I'm lead to believe from searching around the web that its the door lock actuator / solenoid that needs replacing, but i can't find the part anywhere for the MK3 Scenic, does anyone know the part number so I can search with that instead. The only thing i found was the full lock which was ~£90 i was hoping for just the actuator at ~£10


many thanks

Clio MK2 uneven air vents blowing

Hi,

I have asked on forum in mine native language but did not get any answer.
Recently i got Clio MK2 1.2 16V

But i have one minor issue, with air vents.
When AC is on centered two grills are blowing ok, but left and right are blowing but not equal as center grills, air flow is weaker.

My dad also have same Clio model and blowing is equal on all grills.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Injection Fault

I have a 2008 RENAULT MEGANE DYNAMIQUE VVT 1598cc PETROL automatic transmission. It momentarily goes into idle and will not accelerate and i then have to take my foot of the accelerator for a moment then back on and it then picks up again. twice now has it gone into idle mode longer and will not pick up whatever I do until i turn the engine off and on again then it's all good just the momentary idle from time to time. The second time it beeped and the message injection fault came up. When it all started i was in cruise control mode on the motorway and it suddenly disengaged from cruise and I just accelerated and turned it back on and once in a while it would do that when in cruise control mode and then now it's as described above.

Traffic brake pedal creep

Hi everyone I have just bought a 2011 Renault traffic 115 that I am experiencing brake pedal creep with. I have changed the discs and pads on the front and back and all pistons, levers and cables were moving freely. I have done about 500 miles since changing all these, so they should be all bedded in. I have thoroughly checked the whole system for any signs of leaks and there aren’t any, I have pressure bled the whole system so no air or old fluid in the system.
Now although the van stops very well under normal driving conditions the pedal does feel a little spongy but I get good stopping power.
Now if I stop at traffic lights and keep my foot on the brake while the van is idling the pedal gradually creeps down to the floor. Once I pull my foot off the pedal and re apply then I have brake again and it starts to creep to the floor again.
If I pump the brake pedal while the engine is off until the pedal is firm and I keep applying pressure then the pedal doesn’t creep so don’t think there is an issue with the master cylinder.
After extensive research on the internet I’m getting the impression that this is normal due to manufacturers using dual diaphragm boosters to get the stopping power needed to stop larger heavier vehicles.
Does anyone else out there have a van that does the same ?
Or does anyone know if this is normal or not ?
Or if there is a problem with the brakes on my van ?

Greetings from Rijeka Croatia

Hi guys.

I am Josip (Joseph in english), from Rijeka Croatia.
Recently got Renault Clio MK2, 2004, 1.2 16V in very good condition.

Of course i will have some questions about it.
Thanks.

Clio mk2 one-off battery problem?

So yesterday after I finished work at 2am I get in my car turn the engine and it just does not want to start up... the engine cranks and is being responsive. I replaced the spark plugs so that is out of the equation and I had to jump start my car which turned over immediately without any probs, bearing in mind it was freezing outside could it be cold weather? Since then my car has been starting without any problems now im just thinking which part is slowly diminishing?

Bonjour..........

Hello (my French is just about limited to just the thread title!),

Well, having nosed about the site this last few weeks, I thought I had better join and say hello.

I have just ordered a brand-new Renault Koleos 2.0 dci Signature Nav 4WD in Admiral Blue, due for delivery in Mid-November.

I hit the options list and took all the options offered (well, actually there was only one option offered - a space saver tyre! Anyway, I am having it as the dealer is throwing it in FOC).

It is my first Renault for many years, having way-back had a Renault Laguna as a company car. This time I thought I would have a change away from the more common SUV's knocking around and go for something a little different.

No doubt I will be asking a few questions once I get it, particularly as it seems loaded with 'toys' to play around with (and which no doubt I will manage to break!).

Renault trafic steering wheel won't center

Hello all

I own a Renault trafic 2006 2.5 140 dci

I have a problem with the steering wheel not centering after turning

The steering wheel will return to center after turning left but does not fully center after turning right


I have changed both track rod ends and top mount bearings on suspension,and the tracking has been checked

Any pointers or ideas greatly appreciated

Tony

2006 Clio 1.5 dci - Ignition barrel replacement - Lug won't move

Hey guys.

So I’ve worked out that I need to replace my ignition barrel on my 2006 Clio 1.5 dci; thanks to some helpful guys conforming my assessment here: (https://www.renaultforums.co.uk/17-e...ving-help.html)

I’ve striped the shroud down and removed the wires connected to the ignition barrel. However, I’ve hit a snag at the last step.

My Haynes manual and YouTube videos that I’ve watched say to turn the key to a certain point then depress the lug (with a screwdriver) at the back of the ignition, to release the barrel.

However when I turn the key to this position the lug wont budge, no matter how hard I push.
I have tried moving the key very slowly throughout its entire turning motion. I've tried stopping at every mm of that turning motion. I’ve tried wiggling and shaking the key and barrel. I’ve tried tapping gently on the screwdriver with a hammer.

No matter what I try I can’t get that lug to push in, so I can remove the barrel.

Am I being dumb, or is there a special knack to this, or a trick that I can use to make this lug push in?

I've attached a couple of pictures to be clear.

Thanks in advance.

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