Vauxhall Movano Rear air suspencion problem

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Vauxhall Movano Rear air suspencion problem

I just bought this vauxhall movano second hand so i don't know if it was always like this or not.

The bus used to be an NHS ambulance. It has normal suspension on the front and fully pneumatic suspension at the back, I think the air suspension where fitted by the ambulance converter and so it look different to the other thread about air suspension which i saw on this section of the forum.


The bus:
Vauxhall Movano SWB 3.3T
2.5 Dtci


What is happening:
- Overnight the rear drops to it's lowest (which i beleive it's normal for air suspension?)
- When switches on the compressor come on
- After 5 minutes the rear as lifted as high as it will go
- After 10 minutes static the compressor stop making a noise

- There is no noise of any air leak or nothing suspicious sounding, if park for a few hours the bus stays ups



Question:
- is it normal for the air suspension to go down overnight? I would think so but what do you think?
- should my suspension rise much taller than this, to have front and back at a similar height? the airbag seems to only go up 4-5cm no more. And when looking at the bus from the side the front is upper that the back (wheel to bumper in the front is above 12cm, wheel to bumper in the back is only 6cm).
- it seems that the compressor works and do its business so could it be what control the heigh the issue?
- is there any point to pump air in the valve which is under the bonnet or this would only do the same thing the compressor is already doing?


How hard to find a mechanic which can takle this kind of problem? I've been in touch with glide-rite but i live in orkney and their nearest workshop is in glasgow which is really not an option. If the fix is hard/expensive i'll have to look for the conversion to leaf solution.





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Renault (French) wiring Diagram Colours Decode

some of the colours can be worked out with schoolboy French and a bit of luck, but to save people the hassle of potentially getting it wrong I found a decode on't t'internet and it is shown below, I hope it is useful to others as it has been for me


BA White
BE Blue
BJ Beige
CY Clear
GR Grey
SA Pink
VE Green
JA Yellow
MA Brown
NO Black
OR Orange
RG Red
VI Mauve

Renault Kangoo Van -adjustable headlights

Hi,
I own a 2014 Kangoo Van (1.5 diesel).

Shortly I’ll be relocating to France and would like to register the van on French plates.
In order to pass the CT test (French mot) the headlights will either require replacing (from a lhd van). My daughters bf brother is a mechanic and he thinks I won’t need to change them as they are adjustable. Renault lights are very expensive in France and a friend of mine who lives out there bought the lights for his off eBay Germany.

Can you confirm or help me please ?
Thanks in advance
Tim

Whistling CHRA FIXED!!!

This cloudy day is looking sunny to me. The CHRA in my Scenic 2 has given up its whistling habit.:grin2:All it took was throwing caution to the wind. I searched and searched for leaks - changing gaskets , etc....
I had set the stop screw for the variable geometry to where the original was set and tried turning it up to half a turn in or out to see if it would make a difference - it did not. I have read that if the stop screw is not screwed in far enough the turbo will spool up to soon and can cause overboost and engine damage. If screwed in too far the turbo will not spool up quickly enough causing low performance and carbon buildup which can also damage the engine. After all I had tried it was looking like I would have to send the complete turbo to a shop to have it calibrated on a flow bench. I have not been able to find a shop in France so it would involve 50 euros shipping to the UK and back plus the 100 euros for the calibration. I decided - SCREW IT - so I did. I fugured it was spooling up too soon so I screwed the stop screw in 1-1/2 turns. I noticed the whistle started at a higher RPM. I screwed it in another 1/2 turn and maybe it made a little less noise. I screwed it in another full turn and glory be - it is great! I still notice a slight sound when accelerating from a stop so I believe the urbo is spooling up early enough. It has great power and so there it will stay! Thanks to those who tried to help. I never would have guessed that from one chra to another it would be necessary to turn the set screw 3 full turns.
Cheers:toast:

Bye

I,m gone to pastures new. I would like to Thank the one or two nice people that helped with the questions i,v had but in general I'm finding it to be hard going So as the saying goes "I'M OUT". BYE

Megane 2006 Drivers Window doesn't work - wire seperate switch possible?

Have a Megane 2006 mk2 convertible with a problem with the drivers window, as in it doesn't operate with either the drivers door switch or with the operating of the roof.

Is it possible to wire up a new switch directly to the Motor? Is it possible to remove the Temic unit and just put a positive and a negative wire directly to the motor somehow? I believe there's no terminals on the motor itself, I just see little poles when the Temic is removed, is there a way to connect a power directly to the motor?

I've replaced the Temic unit and it made no difference.
When pressing the drivers switch there are no noises to hear from the motor or any noise at all.
When checking for continuity at the switch etc, I can make the drivers window go down and up sometimes, but it doesn't always work when testing.
I also swapped the wires in the block conenctor of the driver switch to the drivers door passenger switch and the drivers switch then operated the passenger window suggesting the drivers switch itself is ok.

I've checked the 6 pin connector wires at the switch and this is what I've determined the wires to be doing:

grey/white 12v constant, goes to 0v when passenger window switch pressed down and its window goes down.
white/orange 12v constant, goes to 0v when passenger window switch pressed up and its window goes up.
black wireA makes driver window go down.
black wireB makes driver window go up.
yellow wire has 12v constant.
black/grey wire = 0v. (Am I correct in assuming this is an earth?)

Both 25amp fuses and the 40amp fuse are ok.

I'd appreciate any help in figuring this out, if wiring up a direct switch is possible it might be the easiest option for me.

What does this light mean in my 2006 clio?

I can't find anything online or in a handbook to tell me what it means, I've checked my reverse lights and they are working fine. Anyone have any idea?

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2006 Megane 1.5 dci Cambelt change & Torque wrench settings

Hi all, my first post hope someone can help with this.

I’m planning on doing the cambelt this weekend (if the rain holds off lol) I’ve got a couple of questions I hope someone could answer. My car is a 2006 1.5 dci the 106bhp version.

First question, I’ve just had a quick look (it was quick it started raining) for the plug hole for the tdc tool. I know it’s on the front gearbox end of the engine but I couldn’t see it from above. Is it behind the starter motor, accessed from below or am I going blind?

Second question, does anyone know the correct torque wrench settings for the tensioner, waterpump and crank pulley? I’ve done a little searching the internet and keep reading slightly different torques. It would be great if someone could give me me the definitive torques. With the floating crank sprocket I really don’t want that slipping.

Espase which does not work on the start button

The car is a Renault espase. 2.0 t model IV 2003 .Cambelt jump became valve salad so I switched all valves took two months and get together with parts and jobs. The battery was unloaded . new battery .When i press the start button it just clicks.

Has pulled a new signal cable from the starter motor, it nudges it on plus then the engine is running.
So i suspects that a relay or fuse It's not crankshaft pulse transducer
I wants help if it goes, have a clip v173 thanks in advance Sincerely, Izzy71