Down the driver side, my door trim plastics were badly scuffed when I bought her but I knew at some stage I would try to repaint them. Slight change of plan as I carbon wrapped them. No pics as I didn't think to make this help guide until today. The big problem being how to remove them from the door. I couldn't find help anywhere and asking Renault is a waste of just about anything applied in trying.
Tools needed :
2x Butter knife or similar (for removal of the plastics)
Hair dryer
Scissors
Craft / Stanley knife
Pen
Removal of trim (and engine size badge)
This is much easier than first thought with concerns of taking off inside door cards and god knows what else. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics so I will describe as best as I can.
At each end of the trim, roughly in the centre is a small plastic lever with a plastic bobble on the end that slots in a hole in the door. The lever is bent so you can easily get a butter knife in and pry the bobble out. Importantly, the rear trims only have one bobble which I think was at the back.
The front and rear trim both slide off backwards.
Gently insert the butter knife down between the trim and door and slightly prize apart. You should be able to see the lever. It's a little fiddly but you can use the butter knife to wedge it out of the hole. Leave the knife in place. Do both bobbles (front only) and with a bit of shouting, the trim will slide off backwards. There are a few guides holding the trim in slots and with built up grime, it will be a little tough but you will do it.
I bought some carbon wrap for about £10. The engine size badges have three clips that need prying carefully and they simply push off, for cleaning and refinishing if needed. I washed everything down and cleaned the door panels.
Note the plastics are already pitted and even though painted, the carbon wrap can be applied without sanding, unless you need to do so. I had to sand two of them as they were damaged.
I then placed each trim on the back of the carbon wrap and cut out each carbon wrap piece with at least 20 mm overlap.
Carbon wrap can be applied and removed if the trim is placed wrong. I simply peeled off part of the backing so I could stick the first end of the trim down, leaving the carbon wrap on the table and placing the trim on top of it. Once I was happy it was in the right place, I then turned it all over and started to apply the rest of the wrap.
With the help of a friend holding the backing paper, I held the carbon wrap strip above at about 60 degrees and simply ran my fingers side to side like a wave to lay the carbon wrap bit by bit until it is fully laid while my friend simply pulled the backing paper gently while I did so. Doing this, pretty much ensures no bubbles but if you do get them, don't be afraid to gently pull it back off a bit and try again. The adhesive on the carbon wrap stays there so you lose no stickiness.
Next is to use the hair dryer to warm up the edges of the carbon wrap so that you can manipulate it around the edge of the trim and into the slot where the engine size badge goes. BE very careful not to heat it up too much and not to press too hard because it will stretch and look deformed or worse, rip. Take your time and it will manipulate nicely. Do not try to wrap around the edge and then onto the back in one go, do around the entire edge first. This stuff keeps it's shape well so better to take it easy and do it best as you can.
The double corner/curves. This is the hardest part of wrapping because you are stretching in two or more directions when naturally it only wants to fold in one. Again, take your time.
You can then stick down the back of the trims carbon and using your craft knife, trim off any excess that needs removing for clips etc. Most of the excess can stay on as there is room for it and it can't be seen.
Three very valuable tips for carbon wrapping.
This stuff is so cheap, you can get extra and practice on odd stuff, like simple clipper lighters and more complex objects, which is infact fun and can look great on the most obscure stuff.
If you mess up or think you could have done better OR even want to change the color later, what is a couple quid compared to the efforts of prep spray painting and lacquer.
Before you start, I'm no professional wrapper... and wrote this off the top of my head. There are loads of guides and tutorials on the net for wrapping.
Anyway, I hope the removal of the trim part helps as that is my main reason for posting this. But if it also gets you wrapping and saves you a bundle AND makes it look good for you, brilliant. :cool:
Tools needed :
2x Butter knife or similar (for removal of the plastics)
Hair dryer
Scissors
Craft / Stanley knife
Pen
Removal of trim (and engine size badge)
This is much easier than first thought with concerns of taking off inside door cards and god knows what else. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics so I will describe as best as I can.
At each end of the trim, roughly in the centre is a small plastic lever with a plastic bobble on the end that slots in a hole in the door. The lever is bent so you can easily get a butter knife in and pry the bobble out. Importantly, the rear trims only have one bobble which I think was at the back.
The front and rear trim both slide off backwards.
Gently insert the butter knife down between the trim and door and slightly prize apart. You should be able to see the lever. It's a little fiddly but you can use the butter knife to wedge it out of the hole. Leave the knife in place. Do both bobbles (front only) and with a bit of shouting, the trim will slide off backwards. There are a few guides holding the trim in slots and with built up grime, it will be a little tough but you will do it.
I bought some carbon wrap for about £10. The engine size badges have three clips that need prying carefully and they simply push off, for cleaning and refinishing if needed. I washed everything down and cleaned the door panels.
Note the plastics are already pitted and even though painted, the carbon wrap can be applied without sanding, unless you need to do so. I had to sand two of them as they were damaged.
I then placed each trim on the back of the carbon wrap and cut out each carbon wrap piece with at least 20 mm overlap.
Carbon wrap can be applied and removed if the trim is placed wrong. I simply peeled off part of the backing so I could stick the first end of the trim down, leaving the carbon wrap on the table and placing the trim on top of it. Once I was happy it was in the right place, I then turned it all over and started to apply the rest of the wrap.
With the help of a friend holding the backing paper, I held the carbon wrap strip above at about 60 degrees and simply ran my fingers side to side like a wave to lay the carbon wrap bit by bit until it is fully laid while my friend simply pulled the backing paper gently while I did so. Doing this, pretty much ensures no bubbles but if you do get them, don't be afraid to gently pull it back off a bit and try again. The adhesive on the carbon wrap stays there so you lose no stickiness.
Next is to use the hair dryer to warm up the edges of the carbon wrap so that you can manipulate it around the edge of the trim and into the slot where the engine size badge goes. BE very careful not to heat it up too much and not to press too hard because it will stretch and look deformed or worse, rip. Take your time and it will manipulate nicely. Do not try to wrap around the edge and then onto the back in one go, do around the entire edge first. This stuff keeps it's shape well so better to take it easy and do it best as you can.
The double corner/curves. This is the hardest part of wrapping because you are stretching in two or more directions when naturally it only wants to fold in one. Again, take your time.
You can then stick down the back of the trims carbon and using your craft knife, trim off any excess that needs removing for clips etc. Most of the excess can stay on as there is room for it and it can't be seen.
Three very valuable tips for carbon wrapping.
This stuff is so cheap, you can get extra and practice on odd stuff, like simple clipper lighters and more complex objects, which is infact fun and can look great on the most obscure stuff.
If you mess up or think you could have done better OR even want to change the color later, what is a couple quid compared to the efforts of prep spray painting and lacquer.
Before you start, I'm no professional wrapper... and wrote this off the top of my head. There are loads of guides and tutorials on the net for wrapping.
Anyway, I hope the removal of the trim part helps as that is my main reason for posting this. But if it also gets you wrapping and saves you a bundle AND makes it look good for you, brilliant. :cool:
How to remove exterior IV Espace door trim plastics
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