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Dead USB Port for Radiosat 3D Sound By Arkamys Bluetooth in 09 Megane Mk3 iMusic
I've searched about a bit and can't seem to find anything concrete about this issue.
I've got a 2009 Megane iMusic, which is kitted out with slightly better than awful stereo gear and uses the "Radiosat 3D Sound By Arkamys Bluetooth" system, complete with usb and aux connections for audio (allegedly) but the USB port appears to be either dead or non-functioning.
The info I got with the car suggests that I could use it for audio which would be grand but I can't get it to work.
I've tried every USB stick I own, formatted different ways, as well as using a usb cable attached to my phone and it doesn't seem to do anything (even charging my phone). It seems as though it's totally kaput - the fuses all seem fine for it as far as I can tell but because the aux in socket is functional I'm wondering if it's a connection issue with the head unit, or whether the USB port is only for updating the Radiosat stuff?
I lack the skills to diagnose this myself, but I could replace the port if push came to shove, but before I dig it out to get the part numbers and start to scour the interwebs for parts I was just wondering if anyone had any advice for discovering if the USB port is either single use (for updating software), or broken (no power to port), or both?
Thanks!
I've got a 2009 Megane iMusic, which is kitted out with slightly better than awful stereo gear and uses the "Radiosat 3D Sound By Arkamys Bluetooth" system, complete with usb and aux connections for audio (allegedly) but the USB port appears to be either dead or non-functioning.
The info I got with the car suggests that I could use it for audio which would be grand but I can't get it to work.
I've tried every USB stick I own, formatted different ways, as well as using a usb cable attached to my phone and it doesn't seem to do anything (even charging my phone). It seems as though it's totally kaput - the fuses all seem fine for it as far as I can tell but because the aux in socket is functional I'm wondering if it's a connection issue with the head unit, or whether the USB port is only for updating the Radiosat stuff?
I lack the skills to diagnose this myself, but I could replace the port if push came to shove, but before I dig it out to get the part numbers and start to scour the interwebs for parts I was just wondering if anyone had any advice for discovering if the USB port is either single use (for updating software), or broken (no power to port), or both?
Thanks!
Kangoo Van Rear Door Solenoid
Hi
Has anyone had any experience of swapping a rear door solenoid on a Kangoo Van ? It was working fine but has now decided not too work.
I can still open the door from inside. I have removed the rear door card and had a quick check with connections etc so looks like it is a removal and replacement. Not sure what is connected to it altogether as space is tight ? Any diagrams would be helpful.
Regards
bluevan97
Has anyone had any experience of swapping a rear door solenoid on a Kangoo Van ? It was working fine but has now decided not too work.
I can still open the door from inside. I have removed the rear door card and had a quick check with connections etc so looks like it is a removal and replacement. Not sure what is connected to it altogether as space is tight ? Any diagrams would be helpful.
Regards
bluevan97
Post reply notifications
Hi all ,just a quick question.
Is there a way I can get a notification when someone replys to a post iv started,just so I'm not having to check all the time .thx
Is there a way I can get a notification when someone replys to a post iv started,just so I'm not having to check all the time .thx
Clio Radio
I have a 2006 Clio Initiale. It has a radio which only gives me FM,CD and AUX no AM. Is it possible to change this radio so I can have AM if so would I need a new Ariel as well, what would I need in total.
1.5 DCi Cambelt Change - Question about timing pins
I am planning a timing belt change.
Having read a number of documents on the procedure (including Renault Technical Document 6006A), I am confused about the "timing" (excuse the pun) of the removal of the timing pins.
In many of the documents, the procedure states to insert the crankshaft locking pin (in the lower engine block) the turn the crankshaft so that the crankshaft comes into contact with the end of the crankshaft timing pin.
Now, the camshaft timing pin should be fitted through the camshaft sprocket and into the cylinder head.
All straight forward so far.
But the next operation is to remove both timing pins.
Then remove the crankshaft accessories pulley bolt (which is torqued up to either 60 or 100nM, depending on the bolt size).
To enable the bolt to be removed, they suggest locking the flywheel with a screwdriver - is there an access hole or does the starter motor need to be removed?
I am concerned that the crankshaft and camshaft may move slightly during the bolt removal (as the timing pins have now been removed), and at no other point do the instructions say to re-insert the pins (to verify that the timing has not moved) BEFORE the belt is removed. So in other words, you are removing the belt with no way of keeping the crank and cam sprockets in their relative positions.
I appreciate that the sprockets wont "spin" freely, but would still prefer the pins to be fitted, to ensure no movement is possible.
Therefore, my main question is, why are the pins not re-inserted before the belt is removed? I thought that was the whole point - to keep camshaft and crankshaft in the correct positions while the belt is removed or the tension released.
I can appreciate that you would not want the pins fitted while trying to undo the crankshaft bolt, just in case the pin gets bent or shears off, but why not re-fit them BEFORE the belt tension is released or the belt removed? There must be good reason for this, or is this a procedural mistake?
Maybe I am being a bit too nervous about the need for the pins, once the timing has been verified, but just want to make sure I don't take a functioning engine and ruin it!
At this point I will say the last cambelt change I did was in 1992 on a Ford Escort with a 1600 CVH engine, so my experience of modern engines is limited.
Any thoughts on this, preferably from direct experience, would be appreciated.
Having read a number of documents on the procedure (including Renault Technical Document 6006A), I am confused about the "timing" (excuse the pun) of the removal of the timing pins.
In many of the documents, the procedure states to insert the crankshaft locking pin (in the lower engine block) the turn the crankshaft so that the crankshaft comes into contact with the end of the crankshaft timing pin.
Now, the camshaft timing pin should be fitted through the camshaft sprocket and into the cylinder head.
All straight forward so far.
But the next operation is to remove both timing pins.
Then remove the crankshaft accessories pulley bolt (which is torqued up to either 60 or 100nM, depending on the bolt size).
To enable the bolt to be removed, they suggest locking the flywheel with a screwdriver - is there an access hole or does the starter motor need to be removed?
I am concerned that the crankshaft and camshaft may move slightly during the bolt removal (as the timing pins have now been removed), and at no other point do the instructions say to re-insert the pins (to verify that the timing has not moved) BEFORE the belt is removed. So in other words, you are removing the belt with no way of keeping the crank and cam sprockets in their relative positions.
I appreciate that the sprockets wont "spin" freely, but would still prefer the pins to be fitted, to ensure no movement is possible.
Therefore, my main question is, why are the pins not re-inserted before the belt is removed? I thought that was the whole point - to keep camshaft and crankshaft in the correct positions while the belt is removed or the tension released.
I can appreciate that you would not want the pins fitted while trying to undo the crankshaft bolt, just in case the pin gets bent or shears off, but why not re-fit them BEFORE the belt tension is released or the belt removed? There must be good reason for this, or is this a procedural mistake?
Maybe I am being a bit too nervous about the need for the pins, once the timing has been verified, but just want to make sure I don't take a functioning engine and ruin it!
At this point I will say the last cambelt change I did was in 1992 on a Ford Escort with a 1600 CVH engine, so my experience of modern engines is limited.
Any thoughts on this, preferably from direct experience, would be appreciated.
Daughter needs a new car
Daughter needs a new car (old car) to accommodate a big dog and a new baby around Christmas time. Budget is around 3-4k which will probably be sponsored by me although that matter hasn't been raised yet. She's seeing four this weekend. Current contenders are -
2009 Mazda 3 hatchback 1.6; 2006 Daihatsu Terios 1.5; 2010 Nissan Qashqai 1.6 (over budget); 2010 Kia Sportage 2.0. All petrol and manual and around 70-85k on the clock. My choice would be between the Mazda and the Nissan, then maybe the Kia. Since I will be a thousand miles away I've also suggested she speak to her local friendly mechanic about spares etc. Any comments/advice? I have never owned any of these although I have owned other Nissans and Mazdas in the past.
2009 Mazda 3 hatchback 1.6; 2006 Daihatsu Terios 1.5; 2010 Nissan Qashqai 1.6 (over budget); 2010 Kia Sportage 2.0. All petrol and manual and around 70-85k on the clock. My choice would be between the Mazda and the Nissan, then maybe the Kia. Since I will be a thousand miles away I've also suggested she speak to her local friendly mechanic about spares etc. Any comments/advice? I have never owned any of these although I have owned other Nissans and Mazdas in the past.
Renault Megane Windows
Both the drivers door window and the passenger window behind the driver have stopped working. I have bought a new module as I was told this was the likely fault, but this has not made any difference, so has anybody any ideas where I should look
Rear brake light on 2013 Scenic
Hi,
I'm having problems trying to replace the brake light on my Scenic xMod in that I can't remove the casing! I've taken the two holding screws out but the rear drivers lighting unit just won't budge - it will live about 2mm but nothing more. Any tips? Do I just need to give it a good yank?
Thanks
Phillip
I'm having problems trying to replace the brake light on my Scenic xMod in that I can't remove the casing! I've taken the two holding screws out but the rear drivers lighting unit just won't budge - it will live about 2mm but nothing more. Any tips? Do I just need to give it a good yank?
Thanks
Phillip
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