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Can a dirty MAF sensor increase acceleration ?
Well for the espace 1.9 dci day camper project (see here)
https://www.renaultforums.co.uk/150-...ld-thread.html
I just had a new turbo fitted, with new EGR and most pipework changed, cleaned, new CAT, service.. Inlet manifold degunked. What a difference, feels like a 1.9D again. However even after a couple of weeks blowing all the oil crud out.. I was getting some occasional black fuel type smoke up hills or after a lot of town driving. But not the lots of smoke associated with big problems.. and only some times.
So to track down the cause I made a diagnostic list of all black smoke causes in three categories, air, fuel or electrics. The first thing I did was reset the ECU by battery drain for 30 minutes, and I got a shock. The vehicle felt like a wee rocket of the mark.. considering its size and all the camper gear I fitted in the back, and the pickup was so smooth.. Mind you it is still minus 3 rear sets and the spare wheel. So I was late for work and hammered it, next thing I know other modern vehicles are getting excited and trying to race me, it was that peppy. However after a few short city errands the performance dropped right down, almost underfuelling. So I reset the ECU and bang all this extra power came back. Same pattern occurred several times and was considering fitting an ECU dash reset switch.
Well this at least eliminates air problems from my causes list as split hoses etc are not intermittent. So its electrical or fuel related. I then cleaned the MAF sensor with isopropyl and gentle cotton bud.. a fair film of dirt came off. Re-fitted and now its slower.. yet feels a bit more normal. There is enough power to get around and the power seems more linear with a feeling that its providing plenty of push at its peak 4000 rpm. There is also less black smoke.. still some occasionally though. Less fuel consumption and its air-fuel mix is always the same... so the ECU does not need reset.
So heres my theory, any feedback appreciated. The MAF with a thin film of dirt produces a signal that there is slightly less air (or more ??) and more fuel is added to compensate ? This creates more black smoke.. boosted low down acceleration but threw the overall linear fuel map a wobbler. The ECU then tried to adjust things over the next couple of runs and reduced fuel - acceleration in the process. So cleaning the MAF reduced the boost, but overall have basically restored the performance to normal values… would this seem reasonable ?
https://www.renaultforums.co.uk/150-...ld-thread.html
I just had a new turbo fitted, with new EGR and most pipework changed, cleaned, new CAT, service.. Inlet manifold degunked. What a difference, feels like a 1.9D again. However even after a couple of weeks blowing all the oil crud out.. I was getting some occasional black fuel type smoke up hills or after a lot of town driving. But not the lots of smoke associated with big problems.. and only some times.
So to track down the cause I made a diagnostic list of all black smoke causes in three categories, air, fuel or electrics. The first thing I did was reset the ECU by battery drain for 30 minutes, and I got a shock. The vehicle felt like a wee rocket of the mark.. considering its size and all the camper gear I fitted in the back, and the pickup was so smooth.. Mind you it is still minus 3 rear sets and the spare wheel. So I was late for work and hammered it, next thing I know other modern vehicles are getting excited and trying to race me, it was that peppy. However after a few short city errands the performance dropped right down, almost underfuelling. So I reset the ECU and bang all this extra power came back. Same pattern occurred several times and was considering fitting an ECU dash reset switch.
Well this at least eliminates air problems from my causes list as split hoses etc are not intermittent. So its electrical or fuel related. I then cleaned the MAF sensor with isopropyl and gentle cotton bud.. a fair film of dirt came off. Re-fitted and now its slower.. yet feels a bit more normal. There is enough power to get around and the power seems more linear with a feeling that its providing plenty of push at its peak 4000 rpm. There is also less black smoke.. still some occasionally though. Less fuel consumption and its air-fuel mix is always the same... so the ECU does not need reset.
So heres my theory, any feedback appreciated. The MAF with a thin film of dirt produces a signal that there is slightly less air (or more ??) and more fuel is added to compensate ? This creates more black smoke.. boosted low down acceleration but threw the overall linear fuel map a wobbler. The ECU then tried to adjust things over the next couple of runs and reduced fuel - acceleration in the process. So cleaning the MAF reduced the boost, but overall have basically restored the performance to normal values… would this seem reasonable ?
VAG/VW Polo experts unite please
2016 (?) model 3 cylinder diesel, owner thinks 1.2 or 1.4 engine, no owners manual, bought 2nd hand - I have VIN and engine numbers but for the life of me cannot find dope on specific engine. My VCDS doesnt speak this polo lingo, and my Autel MD802 while talking to the car, comes up with non-identifiable and unknown error codes that even Google doesn't understand.
I need to help out a friend to get this thing sorted of the limp mode issue ...............
Anybody know how to identify the animal? ............ and what to call it so that VAG can help me in ElsaWin?:think:
I need to help out a friend to get this thing sorted of the limp mode issue ...............
Anybody know how to identify the animal? ............ and what to call it so that VAG can help me in ElsaWin?:think:
Whistling CHRA F9Q812
Hello All,
Been busy with other things like grandchildren but it is time to get back to my problems, not my son's. I still have my 2006 Scenic 2 which I rebuilt the motor of. It had a bad rod and the engine was completely contaminated with tiny bits of bearing material. I replaced the crank and one rod and of course all bearings, seals, rings, etc... then, I also realized that even though the turbo was functioning fine and there was a minimal amount of play in the bearings, with all the metal in the oil I could not say with confidence that the bearings in the turbo would last for a reasonable amount of time. Therefore, I bought a new Melett CHRA. Upon reinstalling the engine, from the first time I started the engine, the turbo has had a whistle from 1,500 to 2,500 RPM. I have adjusted the stop screw for the arm connected to the diaphram assembly several times to try to lessen the whistle but it has not changed in the slightest with the adjustments or with putting 150km on the engine. It is running very well and when I made the "contrôle technique "(France) the emissions were very clean. I called the seller of the CHRA and when I described the symptoms he said he had never heard of it making a whistle under only a very light load at realatively low RPM. He admitted that maybe the CHRA is defective in that the turbines are not properly centered within the housing. I have also talked to another mechanic who mentioned that the turbo can whistle if not properly centered.
When I rebuilt the engine I chose to clean the oil feed and return pipes to the turbo. I used solvents and rags and soap and water and solvents and rags to the point that I am quite sure they were very clean. There was no damage to the old turbo and there was and still are no marks on the turbo housing that would indicate that the vanes have touched the housing. Therefore, I felt there was no need to replace the intercooler - I washed it out with a good dose of diesel and only oil came out - no metal.
I contacted the seller again by email because on the phone my french is not really good enough to press the fine points of an argument. I raised the posibility that the shaft in the housing was not properly centered and therefore the CHRA is defective. In my first conversation with him on the phone and in the following emails he stressed that the only way to properly install a CHRA it must be set up on an air flow bench to properly adjust the stop screw for the variable geometry mechanism. He said that many, many buyers had complained of noise and an improperly adjusted set screw was the primary problem. On their website and on all the websites of sellers of CHRA's, I have not seen it mentioned that for proper function of the turbo you MUST have it set up on a flow bench. I have seen this mentioned on the Garrett web site and on some websites for shops with a flow bench to do the set up. In the emails I noted that the whistle occured from the first start up and has not changed. In the packaging with the turbo was a list of components that must be replaced with new parts with supporting receipts. Oil feed, oil return, and intercooler must be changed for Melett to honour the waranty. Those parts new cost more than the CHRA. In the emails he concentraited on the setting of the stop screw or the possibility of an air leak for the noise. He has ignored the question about the turbines not being properly centered which dirty pipes or intercooler would make none the difference. I have been told that without the reciepts for the new parts Melett would not consider a waranty. (note: I have installed 4 other Melett CHRA's without the slightest problem and have been very satisfied with their product up till this point) Having installed 5 CHRA's to this point before having a problem I feel I have saved quite a bit of cash by not buying the new parts and I feel that having to buy another CHRA is just part of the game.
OK, sorry for the long intro - some of you are probably becoming familiar with this but to get good advice I feel it is important to note what has transpired. Tooooo the questions!!
Has anyone else experienced this problem - a whistle as the turbo "spools up" that is not evident when going down the road unless you are going about 2000 RPM in town under light throtlte or lightly reving the engine at a stop. It is not extreamly loud but very noticible when putting the car in the garage?
If you have experienced this on a new turbo or Chra, what was done to correct it? I was wondering if it is possible to make a measurement from a mounting flange to the turbine assembly to check if the chra is properly centered but the technichian said it is not possible. I have the old CHRA to compare with. I am just about resigned to ordering another CHRA but I would like to feel a bit more confident that the replacement will not also whistle. What are your thoughts on the centering of the turbine assembly?
If you have persisted to read this far - thank you - I look forward to your opinion.
Papy
Been busy with other things like grandchildren but it is time to get back to my problems, not my son's. I still have my 2006 Scenic 2 which I rebuilt the motor of. It had a bad rod and the engine was completely contaminated with tiny bits of bearing material. I replaced the crank and one rod and of course all bearings, seals, rings, etc... then, I also realized that even though the turbo was functioning fine and there was a minimal amount of play in the bearings, with all the metal in the oil I could not say with confidence that the bearings in the turbo would last for a reasonable amount of time. Therefore, I bought a new Melett CHRA. Upon reinstalling the engine, from the first time I started the engine, the turbo has had a whistle from 1,500 to 2,500 RPM. I have adjusted the stop screw for the arm connected to the diaphram assembly several times to try to lessen the whistle but it has not changed in the slightest with the adjustments or with putting 150km on the engine. It is running very well and when I made the "contrôle technique "(France) the emissions were very clean. I called the seller of the CHRA and when I described the symptoms he said he had never heard of it making a whistle under only a very light load at realatively low RPM. He admitted that maybe the CHRA is defective in that the turbines are not properly centered within the housing. I have also talked to another mechanic who mentioned that the turbo can whistle if not properly centered.
When I rebuilt the engine I chose to clean the oil feed and return pipes to the turbo. I used solvents and rags and soap and water and solvents and rags to the point that I am quite sure they were very clean. There was no damage to the old turbo and there was and still are no marks on the turbo housing that would indicate that the vanes have touched the housing. Therefore, I felt there was no need to replace the intercooler - I washed it out with a good dose of diesel and only oil came out - no metal.
I contacted the seller again by email because on the phone my french is not really good enough to press the fine points of an argument. I raised the posibility that the shaft in the housing was not properly centered and therefore the CHRA is defective. In my first conversation with him on the phone and in the following emails he stressed that the only way to properly install a CHRA it must be set up on an air flow bench to properly adjust the stop screw for the variable geometry mechanism. He said that many, many buyers had complained of noise and an improperly adjusted set screw was the primary problem. On their website and on all the websites of sellers of CHRA's, I have not seen it mentioned that for proper function of the turbo you MUST have it set up on a flow bench. I have seen this mentioned on the Garrett web site and on some websites for shops with a flow bench to do the set up. In the emails I noted that the whistle occured from the first start up and has not changed. In the packaging with the turbo was a list of components that must be replaced with new parts with supporting receipts. Oil feed, oil return, and intercooler must be changed for Melett to honour the waranty. Those parts new cost more than the CHRA. In the emails he concentraited on the setting of the stop screw or the possibility of an air leak for the noise. He has ignored the question about the turbines not being properly centered which dirty pipes or intercooler would make none the difference. I have been told that without the reciepts for the new parts Melett would not consider a waranty. (note: I have installed 4 other Melett CHRA's without the slightest problem and have been very satisfied with their product up till this point) Having installed 5 CHRA's to this point before having a problem I feel I have saved quite a bit of cash by not buying the new parts and I feel that having to buy another CHRA is just part of the game.
OK, sorry for the long intro - some of you are probably becoming familiar with this but to get good advice I feel it is important to note what has transpired. Tooooo the questions!!
Has anyone else experienced this problem - a whistle as the turbo "spools up" that is not evident when going down the road unless you are going about 2000 RPM in town under light throtlte or lightly reving the engine at a stop. It is not extreamly loud but very noticible when putting the car in the garage?
If you have experienced this on a new turbo or Chra, what was done to correct it? I was wondering if it is possible to make a measurement from a mounting flange to the turbine assembly to check if the chra is properly centered but the technichian said it is not possible. I have the old CHRA to compare with. I am just about resigned to ordering another CHRA but I would like to feel a bit more confident that the replacement will not also whistle. What are your thoughts on the centering of the turbine assembly?
If you have persisted to read this far - thank you - I look forward to your opinion.
Papy
Oil cooler issues Clio Mk2 2004 1.5 dci 65
Hello! Read through the forums but would really appreciate some advice.
I suspect my oil cooler is leaking. There is oil in the coolant. It may be the oil cooler, for which I have a replacement, and a replacement part that links the oil filter and oil cooler.
What is the name of the component please? Is there a seal between this component and the oil cooler that I need to purchase? I cannot find reference to it anywhere online, or where to get this seal from. I don't think the replacement component will have one.
I plan to change these parts, flush the cooling system, and hopefully problem will go away. Engine is fine otherwise. It is not getting very hot according to temperature guage though I wonder if the thermostat may be faulty now too. I don't know how long there has been oil in the coolant. Had MOT and full service in May and only noticed on weekend. I've not been well.
Thank you for your help.
TLR.
I suspect my oil cooler is leaking. There is oil in the coolant. It may be the oil cooler, for which I have a replacement, and a replacement part that links the oil filter and oil cooler.
What is the name of the component please? Is there a seal between this component and the oil cooler that I need to purchase? I cannot find reference to it anywhere online, or where to get this seal from. I don't think the replacement component will have one.
I plan to change these parts, flush the cooling system, and hopefully problem will go away. Engine is fine otherwise. It is not getting very hot according to temperature guage though I wonder if the thermostat may be faulty now too. I don't know how long there has been oil in the coolant. Had MOT and full service in May and only noticed on weekend. I've not been well.
Thank you for your help.
TLR.
1.9 dci
Sorry guys again, not had a lot of time today but noticed that the car is sluggish until about 3k rpm then starts to move and runs out of puff lol, also I noticed that when I put the key in the ignition the glow plug light dosent eluminate on the dash?
Renault Megane mk2 1.4 16v Throttle issue?
Hey guys, so I had my car go in for the alternator and it got replaced and I got the car back and noticed a whining noise on revving, rough idle and infact permanent 1k+ revs. I assumed it to be the alternator and the mechanic replaced it with another brand new alternator.
The problems not been resolved, both the mechanic and myself have gone round and checked for vacuum leaks spraying pipes etc and no bubbling at all I can't work out what it is? The car has the odd moment where it idles at 750 again or infact 400 believe it or not but then goes to the 2000 mark near enough I'm stumped for ideas, the map sensor seems to work fine, everythings connected fine I checked for head gasket leaks and that appears to be fine, the cars got injector cleaner ran through it so it wouldn't be dirty injectors I'm stumped being honest my only other thought would be a potential gasket leak on the throttle body or the valve not sealing itself on the throttle body itself? Any idea how I could check that? I believe it was cleaned not to long ago and I'm unsure if it was re-calibrated?
The problems not been resolved, both the mechanic and myself have gone round and checked for vacuum leaks spraying pipes etc and no bubbling at all I can't work out what it is? The car has the odd moment where it idles at 750 again or infact 400 believe it or not but then goes to the 2000 mark near enough I'm stumped for ideas, the map sensor seems to work fine, everythings connected fine I checked for head gasket leaks and that appears to be fine, the cars got injector cleaner ran through it so it wouldn't be dirty injectors I'm stumped being honest my only other thought would be a potential gasket leak on the throttle body or the valve not sealing itself on the throttle body itself? Any idea how I could check that? I believe it was cleaned not to long ago and I'm unsure if it was re-calibrated?
Lag II phII cabasse auditorium sound problems
Hello guys.
I've got a Laguna II ph II with the cabass auditorium tronic with frontal 6cd radio.
I'm having problems with his sound. Randomly it stop playing any kind of sound: calls, radio, cd, navigation, voice settings. I ear a POP and it gets quiet. everything "visual" works, I can play with the radio and navigation but just no sound coming from the speakers.
The only way that I have to get sound back is to completely shut down the car (remove card and open/close drivers door) and turn it on again.
do you know what could be the problem? someone told me it could be a solder issue in the amplifier
I've got a Laguna II ph II with the cabass auditorium tronic with frontal 6cd radio.
I'm having problems with his sound. Randomly it stop playing any kind of sound: calls, radio, cd, navigation, voice settings. I ear a POP and it gets quiet. everything "visual" works, I can play with the radio and navigation but just no sound coming from the speakers.
The only way that I have to get sound back is to completely shut down the car (remove card and open/close drivers door) and turn it on again.
do you know what could be the problem? someone told me it could be a solder issue in the amplifier
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Positive Crankcase Ventilation/Vacume PCV VIN F9Q
Hi All
I have a F9Q Engine in a Suzuki. But they don't have the PCV in Australia and its 4-6 weeks delivery.
What I'm trying to do is get from this forum a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) from a Megane 2003 - 2008 that has a F9Q engine with the attached Valve (see photo). So that I can get the part/s from Renault.
Cheers
Al
I have a F9Q Engine in a Suzuki. But they don't have the PCV in Australia and its 4-6 weeks delivery.
What I'm trying to do is get from this forum a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) from a Megane 2003 - 2008 that has a F9Q engine with the attached Valve (see photo). So that I can get the part/s from Renault.
Cheers
Al
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R-Link 2 delete app - how ?
How do you delete an app on r-link 2.
It should be easy, but I cant find out how to do it
It should be easy, but I cant find out how to do it
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